Jolene in London: 7 Simple, Budget Ideas to Steal from the Year’s Most Rustic Bakery


The oldest surviving terraced houses in England were built in 1658, and they stand at 52-55 Newington Green, in a neighborhood that borders Hackney and Islington. Across the historic green, at number 22, is Jolene, a bakery, restaurant, and wine bar opened in September by David Gingell and Jeremie Cometto-Lingenheim—the pair behind two of north London’s favorite neighborhood restaurants, Primeur and Westerns Laundry.

Both of the previous sites are in unexpected locations: Primeur is in a converted 1920s car garage on a smart residential street, whilst Westerns Laundry occupies a former wholesale laundry business. Despite the historic surrounding, the founders of Jolene have taken on something less architecturally interesting: the bakery is on the ground floor of an unremarkable, three-story block of flats, with retail space on the ground floor. “This is a fairly ugly building,” admits Jeremie. “Of course it helps to have a building that has a dramatic look from the outside, but I think we’d already done that twice. For me it was a challenge to see whether having an ugly outside could actually enhance the inside.”

David Gingell (left) oversees the menu, Jeremie Cometto-Lingenheim is responsible for the interiors.
Above: David Gingell (left) oversees the menu, Jeremie Cometto-Lingenheim is responsible for the interiors.

When we met, Jolene had just been awarded “Design of the Year” by Eater London. “What’s interesting, is that the other contenders spent a huge amount of money on their design,” explains Jeremie. “For us, only a third of our budget is spent on design. We want people to remember us for the food we cook—the rest is really secondary.” The duo have teamed up with farmer Andy Cato (formerly of Groove Armada), who supplies the bakery with sustainably-farmed grains from Gascony. These are milled on site each day and turned into the breads and French bakes that fill the counter. “Of course I think then you need to put money in the details,” continues Jeremie. “I think that’s what makes a big difference, but the details don’t necessarily have to be expensive.”

Here are eight design ideas to take away, all on a budget.

Photography courtesy of Jolene.

1. Under-promise, over-deliver.

The exterior of Jolene doesn’t have the architectural drama of previous sites.
Above: The exterior of Jolene doesn’t have the architectural drama of previous sites.

“Under-promising and over-delivering is quite important,” explains Jeremie. “There are a lot of ugly places that become beautiful once you’re inside, and I like that contrast.” Jeremie compares this approach to their daily-changing menu. As in Primeur and Westerns Laundry, the day’s dishes are chalked up on the wall, the ingredients laid bare: “spelt, pumpkin, sage, and walnut” or “chicken, gem, anchovy, and croutons.” What comes out of the kitchen is invariably more than the sum of its parts.

2. Start very simply.

“David said something that has always stuck with me,” Jeremie confides. “&#8
Above: “David said something that has always stuck with me,” Jeremie confides. “’You can’t put the toothpaste back into the tube.’ It’s a wonderful saying which can be applied to so many things. It’s much easier to start very simply and add as you go along. That’s what we’ve always done and it seems to work for us.”

Jeremie cites the utilitarianism of the Shakers as “a massive inspiration,” as well as the writing of Belgian designer Axel Vervoordt. (Read more on these design inspirations in 16 Design Ideas to Steal from the Shakers and Best of the Belgians: 10 Favorite Architects and Designers.)

3. Create texture.

The uneven nude wall behind the counter is created using hydrolime (a combination of lime and plaster). Beneath the zinc counter, Jeremie has created a “mud wall” by incorporating the sawdust from on-site joinery into the hydrolime and applying it with a cloth.
Above: The uneven nude wall behind the counter is created using hydrolime (a combination of lime and plaster). Beneath the zinc counter, Jeremie has created a “mud wall” by incorporating the sawdust from on-site joinery into the hydrolime and applying it with a cloth.
Madeleines, financiers, palmiers and Naroques bread made from French grains on the wooden counter.
Above: Madeleines, financiers, palmiers and Naroques bread made from French grains on the wooden counter.

(Want to apply limewash at home? Consult DIY Project: Limewashed Walls for Modern Times and Remodeling 101: Everything You Need to Know About Limewash Paint.)

4. Strip away the extraneous.

The approach to the interior is much like the duo&#8
Above: The approach to the interior is much like the duo’s approach to food: there is no extraneous clutter. “We don’t like to have anything here that isn’t useful,” says Jeremie. Staff aprons and branded totes hang on the Shaker pegs and the tables are simply dressed with seasonal foliage.

5. Economize, customize.

 The window dressing at Jolene was created by Jeremie and one of his chefs, who is also an embroiderer.
Above: The window dressing at Jolene was created by Jeremie and one of his chefs, who is also an embroiderer.

“I wanted to do curtains, then we didn’t have the money, so I bought some sticks instead,” he says. Vintage linen (a market find) is hung from a eucalyptus branch, which slots into a U-shaped wooden bracket beside the aluminum window frame.

“My happiness depends on you” is a line from the Dolly Parton song, &#8
Above: “My happiness depends on you” is a line from the Dolly Parton song, “Jolene.” The naive logotype was created by the six-year-old son of Frith Kerr, the founder of the design consultancy, Studio Kerr.

6. Juxtapose rustic and industrial.

“Incandescent strip lights have become our signature,” explains Jeremie. They have been phased out of production across Europe so it took nine months to source these from Atlanta (Jeremie has 300 spares in storage). Here, they are positioned under a high shelf that displays a rustic Hungarian meat trough for corralling produce.
Above: “Incandescent strip lights have become our signature,” explains Jeremie. They have been phased out of production across Europe so it took nine months to source these from Atlanta (Jeremie has 300 spares in storage). Here, they are positioned under a high shelf that displays a rustic Hungarian meat trough for corralling produce.

7. Don’t be afraid to mix materials.

A neutral color scheme accommodates pairings of seemingly disparate materials: wooden Thonet-style chairs (found on eBay) are tucked under zinc tabletops; Duralex glassware and ceramic jugs by Carmel Eskell congregate on the tabletops; white-washed cinderblocks disappear behind banquettes upholstered in recycled wool felt from Kirkby Design.
Above: A neutral color scheme accommodates pairings of seemingly disparate materials: wooden Thonet-style chairs (found on eBay) are tucked under zinc tabletops; Duralex glassware and ceramic jugs by Carmel Eskell congregate on the tabletops; white-washed cinderblocks disappear behind banquettes upholstered in recycled wool felt from Kirkby Design.

For more wabi-sabi inspiration, read about Japanese restaurant Bessou in New York, and this minimalist kitchen in Tokyo.

Taking on a food tour of London? Don’t miss a few of our favorites:



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Danish Light: 8 Ideas to Steal from a New Restaurant in Copenhagen by a Studio on the Rise


Midway through a particularly bleak New York City winter, I’ve been fantasizing about a potential escape—most recently, to Copenhagen. A few weeks ago I was planning an imaginary/hopeful trip, looking at airfares, and poking around the Internet for new hotels and wine bars to try when I stumbled upon Hverdagen—a new restaurant in the city’s industrial-cool Kødbyen neighborhood with warm, clean-lined interiors, paper lanterns, and terra cotta-colored details—and added it to my wish-list itinerary.

A little more digging revealed that the restaurant interiors are by Danish studio Vermland, founded by cabinet maker Joakim Tolf Vulpius and young architect Anton Bak—the very same Anton Bak behind a scrappy two-week, $1000 renovation in Brooklyn we featured a couple of years ago, when he was a spacial designer at the Royal Danish Academy and his partner, Kristina Line, was interning at Søren Rose Studio in New York. The design world is small.

Back to the restaurant: It’s full of lovely, subtle design details to take note of—and looks well worth a visit should you find yourself in Copenhagen.

Photography by Jannick Boerlum, courtesy of Vermland.

1. Hang the table.

To encourage shared, family-style meals, the dining room is designed around a long communal table, which also serves to create separate spaces within the single room. (Take a close look: The table is suspended from the ceiling—without any screws or nails, thanks to clever joinery.)
Above: To encourage shared, family-style meals, the dining room is designed around a long communal table, which also serves to create separate spaces within the single room. (Take a close look: The table is suspended from the ceiling—without any screws or nails, thanks to clever joinery.)

2. Keep to a tight color palette.

The serene, clean-lined interiors feel warm and fresh thanks to a two-tone color palette: rusty terra cottas and pinks (on the crockery, banquettes, stool tops) and minty greens (the mugs and glassware holding flatware and salt and pepper on every table).
Above: The serene, clean-lined interiors feel warm and fresh thanks to a two-tone color palette: rusty terra cottas and pinks (on the crockery, banquettes, stool tops) and minty greens (the mugs and glassware holding flatware and salt and pepper on every table).

3. Disguise the W.C.

Behind a statement-making pink curtain (from Kvadrat)? The door to the washroom.
Above: Behind a statement-making pink curtain (from Kvadrat)? The door to the washroom.

4. And keep materials of a piece.

Above: Every piece of furniture in the restaurant is made from a single Douglas fir tree and inspired by Japanese joinery.

5. Add texture with dried branches.

Our latest favorite example of dried branches as decor: cloud-like bunches hung above the banquettes.
Above: Our latest favorite example of dried branches as decor: cloud-like bunches hung above the banquettes.

6. Employ the subtlest of checks.

The banquettes feature leather seat cushions (from Sorensen Leather) and back cushions covered in checkered fabric, a play on a kitchen dishtowel and a nod to everyday, casual dining, Bak and Vulpius say.
Above: The banquettes feature leather seat cushions (from Sorensen Leather) and back cushions covered in checkered fabric, a play on a kitchen dishtowel and a nod to everyday, casual dining, Bak and Vulpius say.

7. Hang lanterns.

Simple paper lanterns add a bit of buoyancy. (For more, see data-src=
Above: Simple paper lanterns add a bit of buoyancy. (For more, see 11 Times Noguchi Lamps Stole the Spotlight.)

8. Use food as decor.

And, in custom shelves behind the bar, bundles of chilis, heads of garlic, and bunches of herbs make for an impromptu garland.
Above: And, in custom shelves behind the bar, bundles of chilis, heads of garlic, and bunches of herbs make for an impromptu garland.

More Copenhagen restaurants and restaurants on my someday-itinerary:



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